
At The Edge of The World, Tasting Time on St Helena
On one of the world\'s most remote islands, Ryan Enslin discovers that the key to St Helena\'s spirit is found at the table.
The spoon carried a warmth I immediately sensed was both familiar and strange. Sweet earth lingered first, then a smokey essence, faint yet somewhat elusive, drawn from a memory older than my own. What lay on the plate before me unfolded slowly into something layered, alive with echoes of dishes cooked long before I arrived on these shores.
It was a risotto, though not the kind I had known elsewhere. Here on St Helena Island, midway between Africa and South America, it carried within it the heart of the island’s pumpkin stew, folded into grains that seemingly worked their magic on the construct of time itself. And, in that moment, I realised how best to read the soul of one of the most remote places on earth.
Not through the stone walls of forts or the country lanes winding endlessly across volcanic cliffs, but through what was set before me at the table. After nearly a decade of longing to reach this faraway place, I was beginning to taste her truths in ways no map or monument could have revealed.
The spoon carried a warmth I immediately sensed was both familiar and strange. Sweet earth lingered first, then a smokey essence, faint yet somewhat elusive, drawn from a memory older than my own. What lay on the plate before me unfolded slowly into something layered, alive with echoes of dishes cooked long before I arrived on these shores.
It was a risotto, though not the kind I had known elsewhere. Here on St Helena Island, midway between Africa and South America, it carried within it the heart of the island’s pumpkin stew, folded into grains that seemingly worked their magic on the construct of time itself. And, in that moment, I realised how best to read the soul of one of the most remote places on earth.
Not through the stone walls of forts or the country lanes winding endlessly across volcanic cliffs, but through what was set before me at the table. After nearly a decade of longing to reach this faraway place, I was beginning to taste her truths in ways no map or monument could have revealed.